Project introduction
Cosy, chunky and quick, there is nothing like a classic bomber jacket. The free crochet cardigan pattern and step-by-step video tutorial are available below, and an ad-free, printable PDF is also available to purchase. This Chunky Bomber Cardigan works up in an evening or two, and the oversized fit and open stitches create a comfy, modern crochet cardigan for the couch or for errands. It features balloon sleeves with a chunky ribbed hem.
Hidden pockets add interest, and beginners can simply leave them out because the written pattern includes the alteration instructions. Even a beginner crocheter can try the pockets: the super chunky yarn makes them work up quickly, and the video tutorial guides you through every step.
Simple Chunky Mesh Stitch
The body portions of this crochet bomber cardigan use an open mesh stitch made with single crochets and chains. Working the single crochets in the front and back loops creates drape and airiness, which makes the cardigan more wearable with the super bulky yarn used in the sample (Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick). Super bulky yarns, also called super chunky or 14 ply, can make a garment uncomfortably heavy very quickly, and the chains and skipped stitches keep the body light and comfortable to wear.
Front Loop vs. Back Loop
<h2 data-pcsp-section=A common question is how to tell the front loop from the back loop. The front loop is the strand closest to you, and the back loop is the strand furthest away. One easy trick is to rotate your work toward you so the tops of the sideways V shapes face you. If you cannot see any V shapes, the sides of the stitches are facing you; those sides create the texture on the finished cardigan, and while crocheting you can usually spot only the front loop.
<h2 data-pcsp-section=How do I print the pattern?
<h2 data-pcsp-section=Many crocheters like to work offline from a paper pattern. An affordable printable PDF version of the free pattern is available, and it is ad free and easy to read on a phone, tablet, or laptop. It is handy for making notes or tracking progress. The PDF also includes the detailed step-by-step photo tutorial and a link to the video tutorial.
<h2 data-pcsp-section=Construction
The front and back panels are crocheted in rows lengthways, so the foundation chain runs the length of the jacket rather than its width. This flat construction makes vertical hidden pockets along the side of the body possible, giving the cardigan its bomber jacket look.
<h2 data-pcsp-section=Sleeves are crocheted in the round from the top down. The bulk of each sleeve is half double crochet, then stitches are decreased before the cuff ribbing. The slight balloon shape is easier to crochet than a tapered sleeve because it needs only one round of shaping, so there is minimal counting.
<h2 data-pcsp-section=Once the body panels and sleeves are done, everything is sewn together and the ribbing is crocheted directly onto the body. The hem is finished with simple front and back post ribbing to match the cuffs, and then the cardigan is ready to wear.
<h2 data-pcsp-section=How to crochet invisible pockets
The hidden pockets are a highlight of this design. Traditional patch pockets, sometimes called afterthought pockets because they are sewn on after the garment is finished, can add too much bulk. The invisible version avoids that.
The pockets may look daunting, but once you can spot the front and back loops they are straightforward. The opening is created by chaining 7 and skipping 7 stitches. In the next row, when you reach the chain, you crochet only into the front loops. Leaving the back loops empty lets you crochet the pocket directly onto the front panels.
<h2 data-pcsp-section=Flip the front panel so the wrong side faces you. You will spot the opening, and the back loops you left empty are not the front loops facing you. Crochet into the front loops, then work a few rows of half double crochet. A solid stitch is used so items do not fall out of the pocket.
<h2 data-pcsp-section=When the pocket is finished, the edges are sewn to the back of the front panels for a seamless look. It takes a bit more care than an afterthought pocket, but the result is worth it.
<h3 data-pcsp-section=<h2 data-pcsp-section=Design Inspiration
This design grew out of reader feedback. After the Briar Pocket Cardigan was shared, a reader suggested a bomber jacket version. The idea was appealing right away, but the Briar Cardigan felt a bit too slouchy and soft to really look like a jacket.
The idea was revisited over time and came to life in this super chunky version using super bulky yarn. The design keeps the classic bomber features: cuffed balloon sleeves and hidden pockets. To add a crochet twist, the body uses a textured mesh stitch so the jacket is not too warm or thick.
This crochet bomber works as a staple piece. Throw it on over a t-shirt and jeans, a dress, or pair it with ankle boots for fall vibes. The thick stitches feel like being wrapped in a cosy blanket or a hug, and with only one row of shaping in the whole pattern, a new cardigan comes together in no time.
<h3 data-pcsp-section=<h2 data-pcsp-section=Check out more free crochet patterns!
If you enjoy this style, explore more free patterns from the designer: the Briar Pocket Cardigan, the Brooklyn Chunky Sweater, and the Stonewash Coatigan.
What yarn do I need?
Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick is a versatile super bulky yarn used across several quick projects, including the 1 hr Arctic Ice Beanie and the 30 minute Cowl. The Bomber Cardigan sample uses the shade Storm Front, a medium grey base with hints of purple and rose. The subtle variegation gives small pops of colour while keeping an overall neutral, wearable grey.
The yarn comes in a large range of colours, mixing variegated and solid options. Succulent, Lion Brand’s colour of the year, is a muted teal green, while Marble is a variegated mix of white, grey, and black neutrals. Super bulky yarns are satisfying because a project can be finished so quickly.
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Written project details
- 12mm crochet hook
This casual bomber cardigan is intended as a fall project. It has balloon sleeves, hidden pockets, and simple stitches, so it can suit beginners who leave out the pockets as well as more experienced crocheters. The level is Easy+ or Intermediate. The sample shown is size XS on a model who is 5’3” with a 32 inch bust. The sizing guide follows XS(S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL). The printable PDF version of this pattern is paid, while the web version is free.
Materials
You will need Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick (Super Chunky or Super Bulky weight 6), listed as 80m/140g, in 80% acrylic and 20% wool. The sample colour is Storm Front (544).
Yarn quantities vary by size: 6(7, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) skeins of Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick in Storm Front (544), approximately 840(915, 1035, 1150, 1305, 1360, 1540)g. Size XS used exactly 6 skeins, so ordering 7 is a sensible precaution.
Measurements are taken with the sweater lying flat on a table. Length and body width may stretch slightly after the sweater has been worn a few times. The sizing guide follows XS(S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL).
- Ch: Chain
- Sl st: Slip stitch
- SC: Single crochet
- HDC: Half double crochet
- HDC2tog: Half double crochet 2 stitches together
- DC: Double crochet
- FpDC: Front post double crochet
- BpDC: Back post double crochet
- FLO: Front loop
- BLO: Back loop
- RS: Right side
- WS: Wrong side
- st(s): Stitch or stitches
- rep: Repeat
- sk: Skip
Stitches & Abbreviations
Gauge: a 10cm or 4 inch square equals 5.75 stitches wide by 5 rows tall in half double crochet, or 7 stitches wide by 5 rows tall in the body panel stitch pattern.
Chunky Bomber Cardigan Crochet Pattern Overview
Use the 12mm crochet hook throughout unless otherwise noted. The ribbing for the sleeve cuffs, hem, and neckline requires a 9mm hook. The full instructions are available via the original designer’s pattern.
Back Panel
The body panels are worked lengthways, so each panel is crocheted from side to side. The back panel begins with a foundation chain that sets the panel length for your size. The first rows set up the mesh pattern using front and back loop single crochets. Rows 2 and 3 are repeated until the panel reaches the approximate width listed for your size, then the yarn is fastened off.
Front Panels
The front panels are also worked lengthways, from side to side. You can choose no pockets for an easier project or invisible pockets for a more advanced one.
No Pockets
For the no pockets option, crochet two identical front panels. The foundation chain and opening rows match the back panel setup. Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until the panel measures roughly 18(20, 23, 25, 28, 30, 33)cm or 7(8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13) inches wide, then fasten off. Once both front panels are done, move on to the sleeve instructions.
Front Panels With Invisible Crochet Pockets
When adding pockets, the two front panels are not identical. You make one for each side.
First Front Panel
The first pocket panel starts with the same foundation chain and opening rows as the no pockets version. Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until the panel measures about 15(18, 20, 18, 20, 23, 25)cm or 6(7, 8, 7, 8, 9, 10) inches wide. Do not fasten off, and make sure your last row before the pocket rows is a repeat of Row 3.
Pocket Row 1 creates the invisible pocket hole by chaining 7 and skipping 7 stitches near the end of the row. Pocket Row 2 works back across, including into the chain space. For sizes XS, S, and M, fasten off after the pocket rows. For sizes L, XL, 2XL, and 3XL, repeat Rows 2 and 3 once more, then fasten off.
Second Front Panel
The second panel mirrors the first. Work the same foundation chain and opening rows, then repeat Rows 2 and 3 until the panel reaches the same approximate width. Do not fasten off, and make sure you have the same number of rows as the first front panel before the pocket rows.
Pocket Row 1 places the opening at the opposite end of the row so the two panels are symmetrical. Pocket Row 2 works into the chain 7 gap. For sizes XS, S, and M, check that both pocket panels have the same width, then fasten off. For sizes L, XL, 2XL, and 3XL, repeat Rows 2 and 3 once more, confirm both panels match in width, then fasten off.
Pockets
With the wrong side facing you, insert your hook into the front loop by the opening of Pocket Row 2. Right handed crocheters insert the hook one stitch to the right of the chain 7 pocket hole; left handed crocheters insert it one stitch to the left. Secure your yarn and pull up a loop.
Row 1 is chain 1, then front loop half double crochet 9, turn. Row 2 is chain 1, half double crochet 9, turn. Repeat Row 2 until Row 7(8, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9) or until you reach your desired pocket depth, making sure the pocket is not taller than the width of the front panel. Fasten off.
Sew the edges of the pocket to the body. To keep the pocket invisible, pick up only the stitches along the wrong side of the front panel so your needle does not show through to the right side, while still passing through the front and back of the pocket for a secure seam. Repeat for the second pocket.
Sleeves
Make two sleeves, worked in the round from the widest part of the armhole toward the cuff. There is only one line of shaping, in the decrease round, which creates the balloon shape.
The foundation chain is joined into a ring, taking care not to twist the chains. Round 1 works half double crochet in each chain around, and Round 2 works half double crochet in each stitch around. Repeat Round 2 until the sleeve measures 33(33, 35, 35, 38, 38, 40)cm or 13(13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16) inches. You can add or remove rounds to adjust the length, keeping in mind that the decrease and ribbing add 6cm or 2.5 inches.
The decrease round begins with a half double crochet two together, followed by one half double crochet, then repeating the half double crochet two together until the end of the round to shape the cuff. If the cuff feels too small, repeat the HDC2tog, HDC sequence two or three times before decreasing to the end of the round. The ribbing uses the 9mm hook: Ribbing Round 1 is chain 2 and double crochet in each stitch around, and Ribbing Round 2 alternates front post and back post double crochet, ending on either one, then fasten off.
Assembly
With the right side facing up, lay the back panel flat. With the wrong side facing up, lay the front panels on top so the right sides of the back and front panels touch on the inside of the cardigan. If you made pocket front panels, make sure the seamed pocket wrong sides, not the pocket holes, face you.
The final row of both front panels is sewn to the back panel, with Row 1 of the front panels forming the neckline edge. Double check that the pocket holes fall along the sides of the cardigan and not in the centre. Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch the shoulders together, then whip stitch up the sides while leaving an opening for the sleeves, and finally whip stitch the tops of the sleeves to the armhole openings.
Finishing
With the right side facing you and using the 9mm hook, insert your hook into the corner of the left front panel if you are right handed, or the corner of the right front panel if you are left handed. Secure your yarn and pull up a loop.
Hemline Ribbing Row 1 is chain 2 and double crochet along the bottom edge using the 9mm hook. The exact stitch count is not important, but the stitches should be evenly spread. Keep tension even, since too many stitches cause the hem to ruffle and too few cause it to pucker. Turn at the other corner. Hemline Ribbing Rows 2 and 3 are chain 2, double crochet in the first stitch, then alternate front post and back post double crochet until the last stitch, ending with a double crochet. Do not fasten off.
Rotate the cardigan 45 degrees to work the neckline ribbing. Neckline Ribbing Row 1 is chain 2 and double crochet along the neckline edge to the corner of the other front panel, keeping stitches even and neat. If the neckline ruffles you have too many stitches, and if it puckers you have too few. Neckline Ribbing Rows 2 and 3 follow the same front post and back post pattern as the hem. Fasten off, weave in all ends, and the cardigan is finished.
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