How to Crochet a Mummy phone case
This is a pattern overview, not a full tutorial. The original designer’s pattern and instructions live at Original designer’s pattern and instructions on Patrones Valhalla, and that page is where you will find the row-by-row steps, photos and finishing details. What follows is a practical look at what the project involves so you can decide whether it suits your phone and your yarn stash before you begin.
The design is a Halloween-themed phone case shaped like a mummy, worked in black and bone yarn or thread. The source lists the materials plainly, and the construction moves through a flat base, textured wrapped bands, a color change, and a smaller section that forms the closure. Because the pattern was written for a specific phone, treat the finished size as sample-specific and check your own device as you work.
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If this overview helps you plan a spooky project, share it with a crochet friend who loves Halloween makes. The source page also tags the project for iPhone, Samsung and Xperia phones, so it may suit more than one device size.
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Other Halloween crochet ideas on the source blog include a vampire phone case and a stars version, both written in English as free crochet patterns.
Supplies Checklist
The source lists a short, clear set of materials. Gather everything before you start so the color changes and finishing steps go smoothly.
- Black yarn or thread suitable for a 3 mm aluminum crochet hook
- Bone yarn or thread suitable for a 3 mm aluminum crochet hook
- 2.5 mm aluminum crochet hook
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle (pointless)
- Button
The source notes that you can change the size of the crochet hook and yarn according to your project. That flexibility matters here, since phone dimensions vary. If you swap yarn weight, the stitch counts in the original pattern will no longer match your gauge, so plan to follow the designer’s numbers as written or adjust with your own swatch.
How the Case Is Built
The case begins with a slip knot and a chain foundation of 14 chains plus one to start working single crochet, for 15 chains total. The source suggests leaving at least 15 cm (almost 6 inches) of yarn tail at the slip knot to help finish off the project properly. Rows 1 and 2 use increases and single crochet to build the base, ending with 32 stitches and then 36 stitches, with each row closed by a slip stitch.
From there the texture develops. Row 3 works 36 single crochet in the back loop only. Row 4 mixes stitch heights across the row: single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet and double treble crochet, then back down again. Row 5 works into the front loops only of the previous row with double crochet, and rows 6 and 7 return to plain single crochet. Rows 8 through 22 repeat that textured sequence with a black color change at rows 14 and 15 and a return to bone at row 17.
The lower section narrows. Rows 23 through 27 work 36 single crochet in the back loops only, then rows 28 through 33 drop to 18 single crochet. Row 34 creates a button opening with 6 single crochet, a chain 6 that skips 6 stitches, and 6 more single crochet. Rows 35 and 36 close with 18 single crochet each. Finally, the source says to add the button and the eyes, and it points to a separate tutorial for happy amigurumi eyes.
Because this is an overview rather than a full tutorial, use the original designer’s pattern and instructions for the exact row-by-row steps, the increase definition, and the front loop and back loop placements. The source also notes that the slip knot is sometimes called a slip loop, a small reminder that terminology varies between designers.
